The cycle path along the river is pleasant: away from the traffic, among the greenery and small gardens with just few deviations onto the main roads. It is also not too crowded: we meet a few students going to school and some elderly people doing some sport, but for the rest we are alone. However we meet a couple of cycle-tourists sharing the road with us, and we quickly realize we are close to the panoramic terrace on the Uji river, where we were 5 days ago.
We stop there for a short break and to buy something to drink, and we meet all the cyclists we have crossed earlier. We exchange a quick greeting, and then get back on the road, following the Kizu river. We are now in the Uji region, famous for the Uji-cha, a variety of green tea. And we see the first tea plantations along the river, together with the Kozuya bridge.
We stop to take some pictures and to cross the bridge, which can be done only by walking, as an old lady confirms when I question her. The bridge is made according to the old Japanese tradition: several boards which are not nailed to the wooden pillar, so that in case of flooding they can float away without destroying the bridge. Only some ropes ensure that the floating boards are not carried away by the flow.
The river is not full of water, and therefore it's not that impressive, but I can easily imagine how does it feel to cross it when the river is swollen.
From there it begins the most scenic part of our day: we cross large rice fields, where farmers are busy with the harvest, and the countryside is shining with golden reflexes all around. Large grasshoppers jumps across our path when we pass by their hiding places, and the kilometers literally fly without us noticing.
When we reach Kizu we stop for lunch: there should be a park around, but we are not able to find its entrance. Therefore, when close to a rice field we find a small altar dedicated to Jizo-sama, we politely bow and ask for its permission to have lunch there, leaving some sweets as offers.
Restored by the lunch, the usual onigiri, sandwiches and bananas, we proceed heading to Nara. We reach the Todai-ji entering from the Shoso-in, and there we take a look around.
But the fruit we have in our panniers is attracting too much attention from the deers wandering in the park, so we cannot leave our bikes unattended.
We reach Haruya-Naramachi, our lodging in Nara and we park our bikes there. The building is an ancient residence which has been converted into a guesthouse, and it surely perspire antiquity with its dark wooden beams and the tatami mats.
We change our clothes and head for the onsen nearby, just few minutes walking from there, called Asahi onsen.
I should have probably read more carefully the instructions at the entrance, because the first pool where I enter makes me feel shaking: it takes a while for me to realize that I have entered the section with electrified water!
While I move to the more normal sections (sparkling water, hot water, cold water) I hear a loud laughter coming from the women section. Among the chatter I recognize my travel mate's voice, mixed with the voices of unknown Japanese guests. Apparently, while I was left to discover the bath undisturbed in the male section, on the other side the customers guided her into learning the proper way of bathing (first cold bath, then hot bath) by dumping on her bushels full of cold water.
From there we go out for dinner: we reach one of our favorite chains to eat in Japan, Tenkaippin and its thick, tasty chicken broth.
After eating a good bowl of ramen, a serving of gyoza and fried rice, with a good chilled beer, we walk back to the lodging, where we prepare for the night.
Today has been a really satisfying day, with a lot of fantastic sceneries and a wonderful weather. The fun is just starting!
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