Day 3: closing the loop around Lake Biwa and approaching Kyoto

A hand knocks on the fusuma, waking us up.

When we reach the living room, an old man wishes us a good morning, while busy in the kitchen preparing our breakfast. Still numb from the sleep, seeing him moving back and forth rapidly and precisely is like getting an injection of adrenaline.

Thin sliced salad with sesame dressing and tomatoes, scrambled eggs with sausages, Hōjicha:this is our breakfast today. While we consume it we discuss about our route for the day: we have read that the South-West side of lake Biwa is not that pleasant to bike, therefore we have decided to follow the coast for a while and then, via route 23, reach route 367 which goes in the valley between two mountain ranges. 

Though it is a highway we have seen that there are often side roads which should allow us escaping the traffic if we would feel the need. And then we will have the rain, so we want to ride us much as possible before it starts pouring.

Therefore we prepare our bikes, bid farewell to the landlord and hit the road. From the guest house to the lake side the distance is short, but when we reach it we have to stop to enjoy the scenery: a long row of trees, behind which the mist covered lake surface, flat like a mirror, unveils in the distance mountain ranges and cities.

We stop on the sand to take some pictures, and then move on. The magnificent landscape we have just seen has boosted our energy, and we move in the waking up villages with a good vibe.

When kids start to crowd the roads going to school, attracting their attention is unavoidable. Two of them, more daring, ride next to us on their white bikes. The bravest of the two holds his courage and greets us with a "Herro!". When we answer with a smile and with an "Hello!" he goes a step further, asking us "Do you rike sushi?", to which we answer "Yes, also miso ramen!". This makes them laugh, and they wave their hands when they proceed to their school, where we are sure this small adventure they have lived will be the topic of the day.

Outside the villages the road is pretty much deserted: the only people we meet are workers busy repairing the shoulder here and there. When we reach Adogawa and take route 23, the landscape quickly changes. 

Though the road is not extremely steep, the landscape quickly turn mountainous, with tall conifers, continuous zig-zag and a drop of the temperature. When we reach Takara Bokujo I stop at a gas station to inflate the tires of my bike. I gesture toward the clerk that the tire is deflated, and he asks me to give him the pump of the bike. Quite puzzled I hand it to him, and when he tries to use it, I ask him if he as a compressor. He then takes a tank of compressed air and inflates the tire. Talk about spirit of service!

For a good part of the 367 the traffic is never too heavy, and we can enjoy the surrounding. We take a break at a combini, where we are greeted by a couple of bikers who are also taking a break. Then a curious old man comes close, asking us where do we come from and where we are going. Considering that ahead we are not sure to find other shops, we also buy our lunch.

Shortly after we are back on the saddle it starts raining: first in a gentle and seamless manner, then heavily. Because of the rain we don't stop at any of the temples along the itinerary: they are not visible along the road, and we don't want to get lost in the woods under the rain.

At a certain point we find the side road departing from the highway, and we take it. When it goes under the highway we stop under the bridge and decide to have lunch there: there is no traffic, the Keishoji temple is somewhere in the forest but not easy to reach and we want some rest.

While hearing the pouring of the rain from the sky and the roaring of the river below, we study the road ahead. Soon after the pass we should be able to go around the highway by riding through the village grown around it. 

Finished our onigiri we get back on the bikes, but after a short while we have to stop: the road is flooded by the river with trees and rocks blocking it. Probably a souvenir of the typhoon, low in the priority list of the recovery intervention. 

Back on the highway, then we reach the pass and descend the 4 hairpins: the view is fantastic, but the road is really wet and we don't want to fly below, therefore we have to pay the utmost attention to where we put our wheels and cannot really enjoy it.

Once in the village we have to climb a steep road before getting back on the highway, then we finally manage to enter the road which, after a few kilometers, will take us to our lodging. It proceeds on the mountain side, through houses which are mostly abandoned.

When we finally reach Ryoso Chatani it is still raining, and after having parked our bikes in the garage, we ask the staff some old newspaper to wipe dry our bags and clothes before entering our room. Then we soak in the ofuro, before heading out to buy our dinner. 

The rain is gone, and the countryside where we walk in the dark is filled by the noise of the frogs. Out in the distance after the mountains the lights of Kyoto shine on the clouds. Tomorrow we will be there.