When we are having the fantastic breakfast served by Ryoso Chatani (all but the natto, we are not yet ready for it), we decide that we will take route 40 instead of highway 367 to reach Kyoto. Since it is smaller we are sure we will find less traffic on it, and considering the rainy weather this is something we surely want.
We wear our rain gears and get on the road: route 40 starts shortly after the place where we are, and quickly climb up the mountains. The vegetation is so thick it almost looks like the road is going to disappear soon, and when we reach the pass the rain has stopped. But since from now it is all downhill and we are sweaty from the climb, some additional covering doesn't hurt, so we leave our rain gears on.
We pass through small villages where again our presence tingles the curiosity of all the kids going to school, no matter if they are walking, cycling or sitting in the school bus. But the idyllic scenery is quickly over, as soon as we place our wheels in Kyoto.
Though there are always broad sidewalks where we can bike, the problems are given by the crowds of tourists: they step out from the buses noses in the sky and not giving a damn of where they are going and who might be in route of collision with them. With the panniers on the side of our bikes we cannot always zig-zag, and more often than not we have to stop and let the mass flow.
We therefore decide to reach our destination, leave the bikes and the panniers and walk around. When we are a couple of kilometers from our place, we have to pass over the railway, and we take a bridge which seems to serve our scope. We are not even halfway that a police car is behind us, asking to stop at the end of the bridge. When we do two policemen come out of the car and first ask for our passports and then why we took the bridge when it was forbidden to bicycles. We have clearly missed the sign on the other side, and we deeply apologize with them trying to explain what happened. They ask us some more questions then let us go.
After passing the Arashiyama bridge we reach Mulan Hostel, where we are lodged today. We are way earlier than the check in time, but the staff is really kind and let us in, allow us to change our clothes and park our panniers in the lobby even though the room is yet to be prepared.
We then walk out to visit the neighborhood, going first to Horinji temple. From there we search for our lunch, and after wandering around we find a promising place: it's called Arashiyama Curry, immediately South of Saga-Arashiyama station and we will find out that they make a really superb curry.
When we sit at the table we are the only two customers in the place, and notice they have a Mikan puppet on the counter. Upon asking them if they come from Ehime, they are pleased we have recognized Mikan, and explain us their relationship with that prefecture of Shikoku; I don't remember whether they are born there, or if their son is studying there.
While we eat our curries more customers come in, and when we are about to leave the place is pretty crowded.
From there we move to the Tenryuji temple and then to the bamboo groove. Walking through the high plants makes us really feel tiny, and we easily forget about the crowd present in the place.
We get back to the hostel to grab the towels and then reach the public bath: today we have decided to use the nearby onsen to relax. The place is really nice and not too crowded, and also the rest area at the exit of the bath is pleasant, with tatami floor, manga, newsapapers, tv and free drinks.
Regenerated by the warm bath, we buy our dinner and return to the hostel, where we sit in the dining room together with other guests while eating our food: traditional Japanese houses are nice, but also modern buildings like this one have their appeal and comfort.
We get back in our room, dive into the western style beds and quickly fall asleep.
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