Day 6: The tooth of a shark and a trick to keep the pace

Though when we went to sleep we agreed that we would have taken easier today, we end up waking up at the usual time. The sky is lightly clouded when we leave, but we won't have rain. We plan to reach cape Muroto, which one week ago was just a shark tooth shaped peninsula drawn on a map, far far away from us and maybe just an optimistic goal for our trip.

The road goes parallel to the coast and the waves washing the cobblestones on the shore play the gorogoro ishi with which this part of the path is know. Back when there was no road, the walk on this narrow strip of stones between the mountains and the ocean must have been really impressive.

The road until cape Muroto flows easily under our wheels, and the excitement makes me fly: I set the longest gear and let the bike chase the road while the sea breeze blows around me.

When we finally reach the caves where Kukai spent some time in meditation we found them closed as safety measure against landslide. We sit for some minutes talking with a cheerful henro coming from Osaka, with whom we share some chocolate. After a quick visit to the nearby museum and its panoramic spot, we start ascending to temple 24, which is on the top of the cape.

Normally the pilgrims climb to the temple through a path in the woods on the side of the mountain, not feasible for bikes, and then continue along the main road. Therefore while we sweat climbing on the 10% slope we only meet henroes walking downwards, who never miss the chance of exchanging greetings with us. When I respond to one of them with a short breathed gambatte kudasai, he cannot help but laugh.

To have a reference pace while going uphill I repeat myself the namu Daishi henjo kongo, and after a series of curves I see the parking place approaching my front wheel. I dismount the bike and sit down to recover while enjoying the breathtaking view, before climbing the stairs heading to the temple.

Ringing the bell before the hall gives a sense of accomplishment, then listening to a group of pilgrims chanting the sutras is the final balm for our legs.

We get back on our bikes, quickly descend to the sea level and then head North to reach temple 25. Also here the temple is on top of a hill, with a fair climb in between.
Namu Daishi henjo kongo, namu Daishi henjo kongo and again the parking place is there before our wheels. For a short time the sun shines when we climb the stairs, and the water filled rice fields before the sea glitter with lights while the sun slowly starts to descend.

On the way down we meet a French pilgrim who is walking his way up. After some conversation with him we get back on the road to reach our lodging for the day. For the first time in our trip we don't have to rush: we reach the minshuku at a good time, we soak in the ofuro and then have some chat with the young henroes preparing the walk for the next day, before having dinner all together. This time the dinner is home cooked food prepared by the tenant of the place, and it is a pleasant way to finish the day.

After receiving some hints on our path and also on the place to stay tomorrow, we reach our room and take the well deserved night of rest. Tomorrow we will reach Kochi.

Where we slept:

Tano town, minshuku Misono, 0887 38 2224 or via henrohouse.jp