Today we have a long day ahead of us: first we have to cycle past the Osaka-toge pass, then travel as much as possible in the Yoshino valley. We have no idea of how far we will get, therefore we have made no plans yet on our lodging. We will decide around lunch time, based on the progress made until then.
Few kilometers on the road 11, with a shining sea on our left, warm up our legs, then we take a turn to the right and start climbing on road 1: in the past this was the frontier between the two prefectures, and a border guardhouse was set on the path, with the pilgrims often regarded as spies or foreign agents; nowadays this is an almost neglected and narrow road, winding up to side of the mountain between trees and waterfalls.
Our only encounters are workers busy with repairing the side of the roads, for the rest of the climb we are alone with ourselves. We stop often to capture the marvelous views of the sea, and we try not to push too hard so that we can constantly progress. The fresh air of the mountain is a good tonic for our effort, and soon we reach the pass and start to descend into the Yoshino valley. From the narrow mountain road we end up on a bigger and more frequented one, where we experience the extreme education of the drivers: a long train of cars and trucks forms behind us, being risky to overtake with all the curves of the descent, and we take a stop after a while to let them proceed faster.
Once in the city of Naruto we manage to reach temple 1, where we see a large number of pilgrims preparing to begin their ohenro-san. Their faces look happy, they smile and guide each other in all the steps of the rituals: one explains how to light the incense stick, the other gives the pace in chanting the sutra, all appear to be fully charged for the challenges ahead.
From temple 1 to 3 the road is pretty easy, then a short climb takes us to temple 4 and from there to temple 5. Then we proceed further until temple 6, where we stop for our daily lunch with onigiri and sandwich. From the main gate we see a gaijin climbing down a stair, and we ask him if there is anything to see up there. He tells us it is only a small room where henroes can sleep, and then takes the chance for some small talk. He comes from the US, is walking the henro alone and, already feeling the hardness and the solitude of the walk, is considering whether he should give up or not. We share our experience so far when dealing with difficulties, then he leaves us.
Considered the progress made so far, we decide that we can climb to the other side of the mountain range delimiting it, and we look for a lodging in that area. We manage to make a reservation following the phraseology contained in the booklet, so we are settled for the night. Then we continue, finally cycling in the countryside. Whenever we stop we are at the center of the attention of some people: either for the bikes or for our height, people stops and ask us where do we come from and what we are doing. Sharing our little story with them, and getting their cheering and encouragement back, is a good way to forget the fatigue.
We reach temple 11 shortly before its closure and there we meet two gaijin: a friendly Korean couple, with whom we take some pictures, and a German girl, walking the henro after having visited the Iya Valley.
We leave the temple and rush to pass the mountain range before sunset, so that we don't have to climb in the dark. Apparently we are the only guests in the hotel, but we refrain from asking to the person at the counter if he opened just for us: we are grateful to have a roof above our head, and that is enough. After the shower we shortly enjoy the cold mountain breeze and the crickets singing all around with the frogs, then again we fall asleep and get some rest for the next day. Temple 12 is waiting for us.
Where we slept:
Ishii town, Pension Yasuragi, 088 678 0198
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