Day 0: Our trip starts from Amsterdam Schiphol, were we arrive with a train, carrying our two bikes diligently packed in a bag and then in cardboard boxes, as per air company standard. In the boxes we also put our panniers. Then 12 hours flight and we land in KIX in perfect schedule, early in the morning. After going through custom and passport control, where the inspectors are amazed to find out what our purpose for the visit is, we wait for the boxes containing our bikes to be disembarked.
Once picked them up and checked they are in good order, we reach the close-by train station, starting our journey to Zentsuji.
We have decided to go there by train and not by ferry as ferries can be canceled for bad weather, and we didn't want to take the risk.
As first step, we stop in Izumisano, where we leave the boxes at the minshuku where we will spend our last night before the departure. They kindly accepted our request for storage, and we have been lucky enough to also find two Japanese tourists on our departure from Amsterdam who helped us by calling them and confirming we were going to drop our boxes.
Once left the boxes we have to carry the bikes in their bags on our shoulders, on 3 different trains:
- from Izumisano to Shin-Osaka (with a local train)
- from Shin-Osaka to Okayama (with a Shinkansen)
- from Okayama to Zentsuji (with a local train)
Important note: some local trains have free sits wagon and mandatory reservation wagons. If you travel with your bike along, be sure to go to the free sits wagon, where you can place yourself where it is more convenient.
On the last train to Zentsuji we see Shikoku island from the bridge we cross, but also meet locals. Though they don't speak English, they understand we are going to do the Ohenro-san by bike, and they cheer us up with word of encouragement.
As we step out at the train station we put ourselves into mounting back both bikes while the sun is slowly setting. While doing so we cross a few pilgrims who clearly bear on them the signs of having traveled till here. Temple 75 is normally quite at the end of the loop, and the tanned, slim face of the pilgrims tells more on the effort needed to reach up to here than any word.
Once we are done we mount on the bikes and take a ride from the train station to temple 75, just to give a peek, and from there to the guesthouse were we will spend the night, Kaze no Kuguru.
The place is really nice, and way out of the "standard" old style or modern style Japanese houses. The tenant is very kind and welcoming, speaks English and being a cyclist himself we have some talk about our and his past rides and the efforts expecting us.
We enjoy a shower and then rush to buy our dinners, before the forecast rain. Then we also meet the other guests of the day, some elderly pilgrims who traveled here from Okkaido to do the pilgrimage. We are mutually delighted to know each other and also from them we receive cheerful encouragement.
We then go to bed, trying to get some sleep despite the jet lag. At least the dripping sound of the pouring rain is a gentle lullaby.
Where we stayed:
Kaze no Kuguru
〒765-0012 Kagawa Prefecture, Zentsuji, 上吉田町306−1
+81 877-63-6110
Minshuku next to Kansai International Airport
Mimatuso
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