Day 11: the shining blue of the ocean side

Part of our route today will be the same that we have done yesterday, therefore we are looking for alternatives. We have seen that there is another road on the other side of the river, and we ask to the owner of the hotel about it. He tells us that route 740 is not a nice road, being too narrow when compared to route 168, but that is music for our ears: it means that there will be less or no cars!

Finished our breakfast we greet the hotel owner and his family and we set in motion: the air is chilly and the road goes downhill, and as much as possible we want to be on the main road before the traffic of the morning. Indeed, apart some bus full of students going to school, we meet no annoyance on the road until the point we can cross the river and reach route 740.

Indeed it is really narrow: if we should meet a car, we would have to step down and stay on the side to let it pass, but there is no sign of people using it, and moreover it is also being serviced, so we are confident we will be alone for a while. For a good while the road moves across the trees, letting us see the river on our right just for few moments, but then it opens up and allow us to enjoy the mist covered valley where the river flows.

Often we see small waterfalls, either on our side or on the opposite side of the river, which give a fantastic vibe to the place. The frequent pauses to take pictures allow also the sun to rise and shine some more light into the valley, increasing our delight.

This narrow road is a true blessing, and cycling on it is really funny: aside from the gorgeous scenery given by the forest and the river, it has constant ups, downs and turns which keep the eyes and the body alert and active.

At a certain point the forest opens up and we notice a flat area on the left, with what looks like a wooden building and a parking area. When we get closer we are welcomed by the magnificent Hisetsuno fall, rumbling down from a cliff. The wooden building is a camping ground with shop and barbecue, which, considering the early time, is of course empty. But for us it is fantastic: we park our bikes and take some pictures, enjoying the sun warming our bodies and the sound of the waterfall in the distance.

After the break we cross a small village and after it we see the island where the matsuri was held the other day: we are in Shingu, and from there we quickly reach the coast, from where, on a known road, we reach Nachi. Along the way a fisherman we meet in Miwasaki seems quite amused by the sight of two foreign cyclists. The same impression seems to have an elementary school class, which we meet while withdrawing some cash from the post office.

We stop for lunch in the sunny bay of Ugui, where we find a nice beach with benches right in front of the sea. From there we continue until we reach Nachikatsuura and its fish market. The main market is closed, but the tuna we see on sale in a supermarket looks really tasty.

When we reach Koza we have still some time before sunset, so we decide to go inland to visit the pitted rocks of Kozagawa before reaching our lodging.

The place is called Yamasakiya and is run by an energy full old lady, with a strong passion for cooking. Despite not having requested the dinner, she offers us some samples of her skills. We are  delighted by the delicious food she prepares, but also regret not having the full dinner there.

The room upstairs is really big, and while we relax in it, we hear someone singing close-by. When we give a look outside, we see that in the building opposite from our room, an old school, a choir is practicing. Their voices are the only human sound which we hear in the otherwise sleepy town.