Day 7: the climb to Koyasan

The first light of the day wakes us up, and when we get out of the room for our breakfast the air is chilly but pleasant, the sky covered with some clouds. Today we are climbing to Koyasan, or better to the ropeway station that takes to Koyasa, and if it doesn't rain it is already good.

Also the German couple gets up early with us, and we have some chat while having our breakfast, then we give a quick check to our bikes and hit the road. We first stop at the combini to buy our lunch, just to be on the safe side: we don't want to be on a road in the mountains with no food and drinks. From there we start the climb.

Being early in the Sunday morning there is not so much traffic, and we can enjoy the view while the road winds on the side of the mountain. The buildings of the city quickly leave space to tall trees and sparse houses, and here and there, through the tree, we can see the railway. There are seven stations from the city to Koyasan, and we will get on board at the sixth. Along the road almost every house we see has a small table selling fruits from the local orchards, mostly persimmons or tangerines.

After a steady climb we have to take a small road on the left, which goes downhill. Before proceeding further we double check that it is the correct one: we don't want to have to climb back up! But it seems to be the correct one, and we find ourselves on a narrow road, with rocks on one side and a ravine on the other, hidden among the trees. Be it right or left depends on the moment, with bridges marking the switch.

After cycling by a temple where only a barking dog welcomes us when we stop to visit it, we start again climbing up. The road here is steeper and more challenging, with no visual reference to help us guessing how far the station is, and we have to stop a couple of times to catch our breath. Then all of a sudden the view opens up and we see a concrete wall and red bridge: we have reached the station. It's not obvious the access is the one we have in front of us, but a quick inspection further down the road confirms us that there are no other means of reaching the railway.

We wrap our bikes in the bags, under a sign warning us of the presence of bears in the woods, and this time we are faster than few days ago.When we are at it we see the German couple taking the rope way, and we wave at them. Then, with our bikes packed, we are allowed to enter the station and reach the platform. We enter the car and try to settle the bags to give as less annoyance as possible to the other passengers, and then enjoy the view while we climb.

When we reach the top the temperature is quite lower than below, and we hurry to assemble back our bikes, searching for a spot where no tourist with large bags has to move around. Then we get on moving to warm up. In few  minutes we reach the Daimon gate, and enjoy the view on the mountains below. Then we cross the village to reach our destination: Koyasan Guesthouse Kokuu. There we park our bikes, take a shower and change our clothes, and before we go visiting around the nice Italian guy working at the reception explains us a bit of the surroundings.

While crossing the Okunoin we still see, here and there, the damages of the recent typhoon: some trees have fallen down, crushing the tombstones all around. Probably those blocking the path have been cleaned away first, while those not obstructing the passage still wait their turn.

When we are walking on the streets, going from one temple to another, our path is crossed by a long line of monks, probably going to some temple. Since the sunset is close and the life of this village revolves around the temples, the roads begin to turn empty.

We head back to the guesthouse, but before that we visit Kobo Daishi's tomb on the other side of the Okunoin while the lanterns on the sides get switched on. Empty of visitors the old cemetery gives a complete different feeling, and the lights scattered around in the growing darkness begin to appear like constellations in the sky. When we finally reach the guesthouse the village is already sunken into darkness.

For dinner we walk to the close by Tonkatsu-tei, where the old lady welcoming the customers seems pleased that two foreigners are having dinner there. The place is small and almost empty, but after we take our sits some more diners join it. The dinner, based on tonkatsu, is really good tasting, and then get back to the guesthouse, savoring every step we take while walking back.

Once at Kokuu we notice that the hall is full of people: some are having dinner, some are reading and some other are busy with tasting several varieties of sake, under the guidance of the Italian. We also take our sit and a tea and get to know two other guests: they are Belgian and they reached this far on their motorbike starting from their home. When you think your trip is special, there will always be someone ahead of you!

We spend some time sitting and chatting,  the cozy atmosphere of this wooden building really helping is relaxing and enjoying the company. Among the various guests stands out an Australian woman walking the Kumano Kodo, who has a really lively chat when she tells about her trip, and the time literally flies.

Goodnight, Koyasan!